2003 YEAR IN REVIEW

New Products
Conditioners & Emollients . . .

CRODADERM S and CRODADERM B                                              return to top

CRODADERM S and CRODADERM B are high molecular weight sucrose polyester emollients that offer consumer-perceived improvements in skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness, even out-performing leading retail brands. Panel tested in a number of cleansing systems and skin creams, the CRODADERMS work well as a blend and improve moisturization, skin elasticity and suppleness. They form nearly stationary films that provide a long-lasting, non-tacky skin feel, and may have a protective effect on the skin barrier. CRODADERM S is a liquid derived from soybean oil fatty acids; CRODADERM B is a solid with gelling properties and is made from a blend of C₂₂ fatty acid chains (Behenic Acid).

CRODAMAZON BABASSU                                                               return to top

Based on one of the moisturizing emollient standards (Orbigyna Oleifera), CRODAMAZON BABASSU is our rain forest harvested version and just became Organically Certified by Instituto Biodinamico (IBD) in Brazil. CRODAMAZON BABASSU has superior emollience and is great for today’s trendy naturals, for sunscreens or for any skin care item with a natural theme. CRODAMAZON BABASSU is one of a range of products developed from sustainable resources growing in the Amazon rainforests of Brazil and manufactured by our sister division Croda do Brazil.

CRODAMOL STS                                                                              return to top

When you have a product that’s 'Superior to Silicone', you’ve got a sure winner! And that’s just what CRODAMOL STS is. Our new emollient ester (patent pending) provides a silicone-like shine and similar feel characteristics, plus additional benefits not available with silicones. CRODAMOL STS is non-volatile, safer to use, and has no drying effects on skin; it is easily emulsified and can actually help stabilize high silicone load emulsions; it has wider compatibility with other ingredients and better dispersibility in water. Unlike silicone, CRODAMOL STS shows little spontaneous spreading on skin. It forms films that aid in sunscreen deposition and help in reducing the dry-off of essential oils. CRODAMOL STS is able to wet pigments, giving it more multi-functionality than silicone in both make-up and sunscreens.

CROVOL MARACUJÁ                                                                     return to top

CROVOL Maracujá offers the topical benefits and natural appeal of an emollient oil harvested from the Amazon rain forest, combined with the multi-functionality and anti-irritant properties of our ethoxylated triglyceride CROVOLS. As a source of the essential fatty acid (EFA) linoleic acid, CROVOL Maracujá may help re-lipidize the stratum corneum and normalize skin barrier function. It can also be used to solubilize lipophilic components and works well in surfactant systems without depressing foam. CROVOL Maracujá is the natural choice for products geared to sensitive skin and is ideal for baby care, eye care, shaving products, and cleansing-type products.

INCROQUAT QLC                                                                           return to top

INCROQUAT QLC is a quaternized lipid conditioner developed especially for skin care. Our research has shown that methosulfate quats, in particular, are exceptionally mild, less apt to penetrate the stratum corneum, and gentle enough, even for leave-on skin care. As a methosulfate quat, INCROQUAT QLC is skin care-friendly and can be used to formulate body washes or creams and lotions that have a perceptible and long-lasting after-feel and remain within the skin's natural pH range. INCROQUAT QLC provides proven skin smoothing and moisturizing benefits from a rinse-off system, as shown in vivo by profilometry and corneometry and substantiated by a sensory panel. The quat is water dispersible, anionic compatible, and polymer exempt from EINECS.

PHARMALAN USP                                                                         return to top

Lanolin is an extraordinary natural emollient, able to imitate and augment many of the functions of human skin lipids. PHARMALAN USP is Croda’s traditional pharmaceutical grade of lanolin and conforms to the requirements of the USP monograph for Lanolin (Lanolin USP). The moisturization properties of lanolin are well documented, as it spontaneously emulsifies water and can hold over 200% of its own weight in water, acting as an in vivo moisture reservoir to help maintain the hydration of the skin. The ability of lanolin to form semi-permeable films can help repair skin barrier function. Lanolin films of ~ 50 μm in thickness have been shown to reduce the rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by ~32% and have been proven superior to those of ceramides, glycerol and petrolatum. PHARMALAN USP offers exceptional purity and exceeds the monograph compliance stipulations set by the United States Pharmacopoeia (USP). Croda-Westbrook pioneered low pesticide grades of lanolin, using additional processing to offer the highest purity of lanolin products available.

Botanicals . . .

CRODAROM GREEN COFFEE                                                      return to top

Just think. . . an ingredient that can help get her body in bikini-ready shape and keep it beach party-safe, all at the same time! What a great marketing story for your next sunscreen! With CRODAROM GREEN COFFEE, thousands of ppm’s each of caffeine and helianth (chlorogenic) acid from this African café robusto provide slimming action naturally, while polyphenol anti-oxidants help protect against oxidative stress like UVA radiation. Caffeine is known to increase the pool of c-AMP which stimulates lipolysis and rids the body of fat. The polyphenols in green coffee extract are plant flavanoids with strong anti-oxidant activity and have detoxifying and purifying effects. CRODAROM GREEN COFFEE is ideal for all slimming and firming type products, anti-cellulite or thigh creams, body massages, spa products and more.

CRODAROM WHITE TEA GL                                                          return to top

With CRODAROM WHITE TEA GL, Crodarom brings you the latest in the benefits of tea and  earlier harvesting. Such timing yields younger leaves and a higher functioning extract, meaning improved performance in terms of antioxidant activity, free radical scavenging and protection from capillary fragility, all of which are due to the extract’s high polyphenol and Vitamin P content. CRODAROM WHITE TEA GL is extracted from young tea leaves of plants grown in China.            

PHYTESSENCE ORYZA                                                                 return to top

PHYTESSENCE ORYZA is derived from the “essence” of rice and provides just what thirsty skin needs-substances known to be part of the Natural Moisturizing Factor of the skin. Corneometer tests prove it. PHYTESSENCE ORYZA contains Serine and Glycine, both of which are NMF components. Through our patented microwave technology, we are able to obtain a higher level of active principal compared to conventional methods.

PHYTESSENCE PLANTAGO                                                        return to top

PHYTESSENCE PLANTAGO can be called “The Lance Against Skin Damage”, as it reduces signs of aging due to its anti-oxidant properties. The Plantain plant is also known to have anti-inflammatory properties, attributed to its acteoside content. Acteoside is the active principle of plantain and has several properties: anti-inflammatory, free radical scavenging and antibacterial. It has been proven effective in preventing superoxide anion formation and in inhibiting lipid peroxidation. PHYTESSENCE PLANTAGO can be used in anti-aging products, in preparations for the treatment of oily or reddened skin and for eye care.

PHYTEXCELL JUJUBE                                                                return to top

PHYTEXCELL JUJUBE is a microwave extract from the Jujube, a Mediterranean-grown red berry that provides a natural mix of polysaccharides and terpenes, plus a substantial amount of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (c-AMP) which is part of the cell’s metabolic process for rejuvenation. Use in spa products, shower gels, facial washes, astringents and toners.

PHYTEXCELL WHITE WILLOW BARK                                      return to top

With about 100ppm salacin as the targeted active, our microwave extract PHYTEXCELL WHITE WILLOW BARK could be a natural addition to your next salicylic acid facial wash. White Willow belongs to the Salicaceae plant family and contains flavanoids (tonic effect) and phenolic acids (astringent, antiseptic properties), as well as the active principal Salicylic Acid (Anti-inflammatory). PHYTEXCELL WHITE WILLOW BARK is also effective in astringents and toners, exfoliants and facial peels, anti-dandruff shampoos and foot care.

Sederma Actives. . . .

KOMBUCHKA                                                                             return to top

KOMBUCHKA is a new, patented ‘lipo-filling’ active that offers a natural, more non-invasive way to smoother, more radiant skin. KOMBUCHKA is the product of the fermentation of sweet black tea by the symbiosis of 2 microorganisms. Historically, kombucha was considered the ‘fungus of long life’ because it was believed to confer longevity. KOMBUCHKA has been shown to decrease glycation, increase adipocyte population, and reduce skin roughness. In a sensory analysis 75% and 81% of panelists, respectively, saw an increase in luminosity and clarity, perceived as an improvement in radiance. In vitro and in vivo studies available.

LUMISKIN                                                                                    return to top

LUMISKIN is a new skin brightening agent that works by stabilizing Tyrosinase in its inactive form, rather than by inhibiting it, as shown by in vitro studies reporting a 53% drop in Tyrosinase activity and a 70% decrease in the quantity of melanin. In further studies, a LUMISKIN-treated skin model was found to display a visible and significant reduction in epidermal pigmentation. In vivo colorimetric tests corroborate this, as indicated by measurements of a lower melanin index and a higher ITA (clarity). In a self-evaluation, more than half thought there were less pigmented areas. The consensus of panelists overall was that skin was lighter and more radiant and their complexion, more even.

CRODASORB UV-HPP                                                              return to top

Recent studies we conducted after launching CRODASORB UV-HPP show that our 65% active, EINECS-exempt, polyester polyquaternized UV absorber for hair prevents UV-B induced photo-yellowing in gray hair and protects against UV damage in relaxed ethnic hair. In the one study, color indexes (L*, a*, b*) were measured using a LabScan Colorimeter before and after UV exposure. Results showed that gray hair tresses treated with CRODASORB UV-HPP sustain virtually no discoloration, as compared to those treated with Octinoate (OMC). In a direct mailer we sent out in late fall, you saw visible proof¾digital photos of the tresses side-by-side. Data from another study on relaxed ethnic hair indicate that CRODASORB UV-HPP provides protective benefits similar to those in both pigmented and gray hair: prevention of Tryptophan damage, retention of surface properties, and preservation of tensile strength.

CRODAZOSOFT DBQ                                                               return to top

Also introduced last year, CRODAZOSOFT DBQ is our 70% active softening quat which consists of two Behenyl chains attached to an imidazoline backbone. Besides great softening effects, we’ve proven CRODAZOSOFT DBQ provides superior delivery of lipophilic actives and protection against combing damage. Now we’ve shown that CRODAZOSOFT DBQ may be effective in improving the washfastness of color-treated hair! (See Anti-Fade Post-Dye Conditioner with CRODAZOSOFT DBQ, HP-244.)

CROTHIX                                                                                   return to top

In January we sent you a letter and/or e-mailer inviting you to revisit the two Industry mainstays in thickening efficiency¾CROTHIX and CROTHIX LIQUID and request the article, “PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (Crothix): More than just a thickener”, which appeared in Australia’s Cosmetics Aerosols and Toiletries. The article summarized our most recent studies showing that CROTHIX remains the benchmark in thickening performance, as compared to the latest competitive materials. Also discussed were the study results from our Cell Biology lab indicating that CROTHIX decreases the irritancy potential of surfactant systems.

INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS-50                                             return to top

When we launched INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS-50 in 2002, we told you it was a high-active Behentrimonium Methosulfate quat and cationic emulsifier that gave formulators the option of customizing the quat:fatty alcohol ratio. In the new INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS-50 ad we ran this year, we call this ‘adjustable conditioning’. Many of you are aware that the C₂₂ methosulfate quat is well known for its detangling and conditioning benefits, but may not know it is safe and gentle enough for leave-on skin care. Now we have many new formulas available demonstrating the use of INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS-50 in skin care as well as conditioners. All can be found in the product data sheet (DS-174R-2) or downloaded from the Formulary section of our website (www.crodausa.com).

Formulator Aids

INNOVATIVE QUATERNARY CONDITIONERS                        return to top

To formulators, quaternary ammonium compounds are the most popular conditioning agents for hair, but many of you, especially chemists just starting out in the Industry, may be in a quandary over which quat to use where. With this in mind, Croda issued a foldout chart early in the year, Innovative Quaternary Conditioners from Croda. This one-of-a-kind reference contains a wealth of applications data on all Croda’s quaternary conditioners, many of which target specific hair care problems, such as UV damage or cuticle abrasion. As long-time leaders in quat technology, Croda believed a selection tool like our quat chart would be helpful to those of you who work with these types of compounds and want to remain revolutionary and cutting edge in your product lines. Our quat brochure even won gold, as it received the 2003 IMPACT Award from the Business Marketing Association (BMA).

EMOLLIENT ESTERS FOR PERSONAL CARE                        return to top

As a global leader in emollient chemistry as well as quat technology, Croda also developed Emollient Esters for Personal Care, a chart of applications data on its line of emollient esters, issuing it in a similar foldout design. Emollient esters are mainstay ingredients in personal care products. Croda’s CROMOLLIENT and CRODAMOL ranges represent a diverse line of emollients with multi-functionality that goes beyond feel. Helping formulators like you select an ester with just the right requirements is precisely why we developed Emollient Esters for Personal Care.

CREATING BETTER HAIR COLOR FORMULATIONS            return to top

One of the fastest growing market segments worldwide is hair color. However, it is also one of the most challenging and most specialized of the cosmetic sciences.

For that reason, we developed a unique brochure, Creating Better Hair Color Formulations, especially geared to hair color chemists. The brochure discusses oxidative and semi-permanent hair color, their basic features, preparation, and ingredient components. Although Croda doesn’t offer hair dye actives, it does manufacture a diverse range of ingredients, a number of which are well suited to hair color applications. The brochure focuses on these Croda ingredients and describes how they can be used in hair color formulas and developers, as well as in shampoo and conditioner formulas. Included are 14 formulations covering oxidative hair color, semi-permanent dyes, temporary dye shampoos, and post coloring treatments. We’ve highlighted our Formula HP-244, Anti-Fade Post-Dye Conditioner, which contains CRODAZOSOFT DBQ and was shown to improve the color washfastness of dyed and treated tresses after 15 shampoo cycles.

THE CROMMUNICATOR                                                          return to top

If you’re like most formulators, you’re often too busy to read through multiple pages of a data sheet and want the most important product data at your fingertips. Croda came up with the answer and introduced the Crommunicator this year. These one-page product profilers provide busy formulators with a breakdown of the product’s properties, benefits, and applications and then give performance data and a listing of formulas on the back. So far, there are Crommunicators for 8 of our products. Keep on the lookout for more in 2004, as we’ll be issuing them on a regular basis.

IN THE PRESS AND ON THE PODIUM               return to top

“A New Hair Conditioning, Softening, and Oil Delivering Agent – Di-Behenyl Imidazolinium Methyl Sulfate” (CRODAZOSOFT DBQ) T. Gao, Ph.D., PCIA March 2003.

Supplier’s Roundtable, Participant, Global Cosmetic Industry, April 2003.

“A Treatise on Emollient Esters”, J. Burke, Southwest SCC ,2003.

"Quaternium-91: A New Multifunctional Hair Conditioning Ingredient" (CRODAZOSOFT DBQ) T. Gao, Ph.D., et.al., Cosmetics & Toiletries, May 2003.

“The Role of Quaternary Ammonium Compounds in Minimizing Hair Damage and Improving Manageability", P. Obukowho, Global Beauty Congress, June 2003.

“Di-acetyl-nor-aporphines: Novel Molecules and a Novel Mechanism to Inhibit Melanogenesis” (LUMISKIN), K. Lintner, Ph.D., Sederma, 2003 IFSCC Conference, Seoul, Korea, September 2003.

“Does the African Hair Type Benefit from Ultraviolet Light Absorbers?”, Ethnic Hair and Skin: New Directions in Research, L'Oreal 2nd International Symposium, September 2003.

“Sunscreen Formulas with Multilayer Lamella Structure” (CRODAFOS CES) T. Gao, Ph.D., Cosmetics & Toiletries, October 2003; also presented at the Suncare Symposium, Florida SCC, October 2003;

“Quaternary Ammonium Conditioners: Their Utility in Personal Care”, A. Pereira, California SCC Supplier’s Day, November 2003.

“Puffy Eyes: A Multi-Factorial Cosmetic Problem Needs a Multi-Thronged Solution” (EYELISS), Karl Lintner, Ph.D., et.al., Sederma, SCC Annual Meeting, December 2003.

“CRODAMOL STS (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate) A New Multifunctional Silicone Alternative Emollient Ester”, T. Gao, Ph.D., SCC Technology Showcase, December 2003.

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